Deconstructing Chenin Blanc in Joburg

Last night saw a throng of Chenin Blanc enthusiasts, some not yet convinced, arrive at Campbell House in Joburg for another Under the Influence tasting. Some Guests were so enthusiastic in fact that they arrived over an hour and a half early! No matter, as the peaceful surroundings of the venue make for a good place to unwind after a day in frenetic Jozi!

The selection for the tasting was really exciting, exploring what we believe to be South Africa’s top Chenin Blancs. The lineup included:

• Teddy Hall Summer Moments Chenin Blanc
• Villiera Cellar Door Chenin Blanc
• Remhoogte Block Number 6 Chenin Blanc
• Rudera Robusto Chenin Blanc
• De Trafford Chenin Blanc
• Raats Chenin Blanc – see video interview with Bruwer Raats here.
• De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc

Phew, this is a serious lineup! What was so fascinating about Chenin was the different guises that it took. Unwooded, light, crisp and fruit driven, to textured, almost oily, smoky and honeyed. The grape also seems to show off the soil types really well. The Raats had huge minerality, apparently due to their sandstone and granitic soils. The Villiera showed off more of the clay based and heavier soils, giving heavier textures and flavours in the wine. From the lightly oaked Remhoogte, with a lovely balance between minerality and stone fruit to the heavier, oaked and honeyed De Morgenzon, the tasting was a real journey through flavour.

Chenin Blanc is a hugely exciting category in South Africa, and this is especially the case since we are blessed with so many older vines. Much like the old Carignan and Grenache of the Languedoc. Hopefully we treat this like a national treasure rather than ripping out the vines, as the older vineyards give Chenin Blanc a whole world of complexity and mouthfeel.

Finally, it was only fit for the Guests to toast the Chenin Blanc on show and the superb winemakers and terroir responsible for these “drops of golden delight” – that was an actual quote from myself on the evening, I apologise to all and sundry!